Three solutions are available.
SOLUTION ONE
SOLUTION TWO
SOLUTION THREE
Make sure the M53 is the right pump before you buy because it will last a long time. The cast iron housing and switch case will last indefinately because it is epoxy coated and will not rust. Heat will not cause the housing or switch case to warp. Heavy continuous pumping will not cause the housiing to crack. All of the cast-iron castings are made with a textile strength of cast-iron class 25-30 25000#. The twenty-one pounds of weight alone tells you it is well built. Sheet metal parts are not used; instead all fasteners, the switch arm, guard and handle are stainless steel so will not rust.
No need to worry about dust or water getting into the motor. The housing is water and dust tight. A neoprene square ring is seated between the motor and pump housing. The motor is hermetically-sealed.
The motor will not run dry and burn up. The motor is permanently sealed, the bearing are permanently oiled and the upper and lower sleeve bearings contantly run in a bath of oil. In addition the motor is thermal overload protected. It will turn off if the motor should become too hot. When the motor cools off sufficiently, it will automatically reset itself and the motor will operate again.
The cord has a water proof seal where it connects into the motor. A manufacturer would not be in business long if the cord connection to the motor were not water proof.
All Zoeller pumps are pressure tested before they leave the plant and ready to operate when installed in your sump pit. No need to wonder if the pump will work when it arrives at your front door. All pump-manufacturing companies have a quality control departemnt; however, it is unusual for a company to test all pumps before they leave the shop. Usually only random sample testing is performed
All parts, all assembly and all testing is performed in the USA. Such practices do make a difference.
Zoeller is a family-owned business that has been in existence since 1939; therefore the caring and quality are tops. Interestingly enough, the first sump pump designed was the pedestal, also known as the column.
The M53 is built to handle solids up to 1/2 inch in diameter. Most pits have small pea gravel or debris in them. Rather than use a bottom screen which can clog and requires period maintenance, a vortex impeller is used which allows 1/2 inch spherical objects to flow through.
The float is solid buoyant, polypropylene. Punctures will not cause the float to fill with water and thus cause the float switch to fail. It is two-poled which means a dual circuit must close to activate the motor. The float is surrounded by a strong steel protective cage on the top to prevent it fron getting jammed on the basin wall.
The top handle, made large enough for a hand to grab, allows for easy removal from the pit. The handle will not rust because it is made of stainless steel.
The pump can handle salt backwash dumped into the pit. Some brands cannot.
The float ON OFF height is preset; however, apump-stand can be used to rais the height by three inches or so which increase the height at which the motor turns on.
The cast-iron pump comes with a three year warranty. The warranty length used to be one year.
The following factors will help you determine if the Zoeller M53 Is Best For You:
The M53 pumps 43 GPM (163 LPM) at five feet lift height; 34 GPM (129 LPM) at ten feet lift height.
Is the pumping performance enough for you water pumping situation? Do you know what kind of pumping performance is required at your location? To get some idea, take a yardstick and measure the diameter of your sump pit. It is probably eighteen or twenty-four inches across. Next, rest the tip of the yardstick on the bottom of your basin just after the motor has turned off. Note how many inches of water remain in the pit after the motor shuts off.
Next, during a heavy rainstorm, just after the motor shuts off, put your yardstick in the pit again touching the basin bottom. Note how many inches the water rises for what period of time before the motor runs again. For example, if 3 inches of water remained in the pit after the motor shuts off and the water rises to 8 inches on the yardstick (5 more inches in 10 secods before the motor runs again), the total number of inches the water rises would be 30 inches in 60 seconds. one inch in an eighteen inch diameter pit equals one gallon. One inch in a twenty-four inch diameter pit equals two gallons. If we have an eighteen inch diameter sump pit, that would be 30 gallons per minute. If the vertical length of your discharge piping is around 10 feet, the M53 would meet your performance pumping needs.
If you need a higher pumping performance, the M98 is an excellent choice. The M98 gpm at 5 feet lift height is 72 GPM or 3660 GPH; it has 61 gpm or 3660 gph at a 10 foot lift height; and a 45 gpm or 2700 gph at a 15 foot lift height.
The major width required in the pit is 10 3/32 inches. This means if your sump basin diameter is eighteen inches most likely the basin bottom will be around 16 1/2 inches. Therefore a little more than six inches is left for a backup sump placed on the basin bottom. The major height is ten inches.
Six inches is too narrow for installing a backup sump pump on the basin bottom. The following backup sump pumps can be installed above the primary-pump in-line with the discharge pipe: Liberty Models 441 and 442dels, Zoeller Backup Models 507-005 and 508-0005, and Basement Watchdog Models BWSP and BWD. If your basin is at least twenty-two inches deep, there will be enough height to install the battery backup pump above the primary.
Install the non automatic Model, N53 if you are looking for a quick way to replace the float switch. The N53 has the same features as the M53 except the N53 comes without a float switch.
To automate the N53 it is necessary to install an external standalone float switch. These types of fooat switches are attached to the discharge pipe. When the switch needs to be replace all you do is unplug the pump from the piggyback switch; remove the float-switch from the discharge pipe; install a new float switch to the discharge pipe and plug the pump in to the piggyback switch. Zoeller has several piggyback variable level float switches.
Another float switch option is the electronic switch, the Hydrocheck HC6000. The HC6000 has no tether float which requires extra room in the pit. In fact it has no moving parts. It is the most fail proof switch we have found on the market because it is not affected by water chemicals or soap brine; it has no TEN SECOND run time after the sump pump is activated; The sump pump will stop running as soon as the water goes below the height of the bottom probe set for the low water level point. There is no need for a dedicated shelf to set the controller on. It is very small - 3 inches long and 2 1/2 inches high. It is plugged directly into a wall socket. The sump pump is plugged into the piggyback switch on the HC6000. We installed it eight years ago and will never go back to the old type of float switch. It works so perfectly. Read more about the HC6000.
The float ON OFF height is preset for the M53 Mighty Mate. The ON height is 7 1/4 inches (18 cm) and the Off point is 3 inches (8 cm). If you prefer your sump pump to run less often, installing the N53 would be your best choice. Installing a double piggyback variable level float switch or installing the HC6000 allows you to determine the ON and OFF height.
The M53, which cost $135 at the time of this writing, has a plastic pump base, glass filled with metal insert impeller, a 9 foot cord, and a three year warranty. The M57 is the same as the M53 except that it has a cast iron base and impeller and costs around $20 more. The M63 is the same as the M57 with all cast iron construction; however it has a 10 foot cord, a Viton outer switch boot which provides additional protection for the float switch from moisture invasion, and a five year warranty. The M63 costs around $30 more than the M57 and around $50 more than the M53. If the longer warranty and a cast iron base and impeller are important to you, the M63 is a good choice.
Step 1
Unplug the old pump. Untighten the check-valve. Watch the water drain out.
Step 2
Remove the new M53 sump pump from the box. Take a look. It is a beauty.
Step 3
Take a 1 1/2 inch threaded PVC male adapter and screw it into the Zoeller M53 discharge port.
Step 4
After the adapter has been hand tightened, take a wrench and tighten it a little bit more.
Step 5
Next take a piece of 1.5 inch discharge piping which will be fitted into the adapter.
Step 6
Measure how long the piece of PVC should be. The length depends upon your check-valve. When installing a new check valve dry fit the pieces so you know how much length it takes. If using the old valve, you can measure by placing The PVC next to the new pump discharge port.
Step 7
Cut the lengthy PVC pipe where you measured it with a hack saw.
Step 8
Take one end of fhe pvc pipe and glue it in place fitting it inside the male adapter. Prime the PVC pipe that will touch the male adapter using the purple solution. Add the glue, clear paste. Put the PVC pipe into the male adapter, sliding it in place. Hold the pipe for a few seconds while it dries.
Step 9
Remember the Weep Hole. Drill the hole either horizontally or at a downward slant of 45 degrees so the returning water in the pipe will flow toward the pit. Never drill the hole sloping upward because the water will shoot outside of the pit. The vent hold prevents air lock.
Step 10
Put the pump into the pit.
Step 11
Install a new check valve. Make sure the flow arrow is UP. Secure the check valve on top end of the PVC piping. Align the PVC coming from the pump with the existing PVC discharge piping
Step 12
Tighten the check valve. How the check-valve is secured into place depends upon the style of check valve installed. The check valve prevents water from flowing back through the pump and back into the pit whoch sould cause the motor re pump the same water multiple times. Preserve the motors life span.
Step 13
Plug the pump into the wall outlet. An extension cord should not be used. Likewise only the pump should plugged into the outlet to prevent circuit overload.
Step 14
Test the pump. It may be necessary to pour water into the pit to raise the float to cause the pump to run. Look for leaks. If there are none, you are done.
Keep your M53 if something fails. many parts are easy to buy online. It is more eco-friendly and more pocket friendly to replace a broken part than disguard a failed pump.
The following parts are readily available online: gasket, switch, case cover, assembly arm, impeller and float.
The only thing we have replaced on our thirteen year old Zoeller M53 Mighty Mate is a gasket which was very easy to replace.
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