Zoeller 1052 vs M53 The Zoeller M53 sump pump has been around over 40 years, but what about the Zoeller 1052? We compare the Zoeller 1052 and M53 so you can be an educated shopper.
These two pumps definitely have some characteristics that identify them as Zoeller sump pumps. To gain a better understanding of their similarities we discuss where they are made, their visual appearance and their common specifications.
Zoeller employees work at both locations; however the Taiwanese sump pump design is slightly different from the M series pumps because they are a former Flint Walling product. For this very reason we are doing a 1052 vs M53 sump pump comparison.
The visual similarities between the Zoeller 1052 and M53 can be defined as follows.
Both models have a Zoeller ID on them. The 1052 may have the Zoeller brand name on the pump body. M53 has a Zoeller tag plate on the top and or an ID tag on the power cord
Zoeller 1052 and Zoeller M53 share the following similarities
The differences between these two pumps are both visual and functional. Both pumps are capable of keeping your basement dry; however understanding their differences will help you to decide which is the best pump for your water pumping need.
The visual differences between the Zoeller 1052 and M53 can be defined as follows.
Zoeller 1052 is around one and one-half inches taller and almost an inch narrower. This means the 1052 pump can fit in a ten inch diameter basin. The 1052 is 9.5 inches wide and the M53 is 10.25 inches wide.
Both models look as if they have the same cast iron body housing; however the 1052 has only one layer of cast iron housing, the motor housing, while the M53 has two cast iron housing layers: one for the motor and another surrounding the pump.
The most notable specification differences are the float height, switch cap housing and shut off height.
The float switches operate the same but the ON OFF height, which cannot be adjusted, is different. The float ON OFF height for the 1052 pump is 8.23 inches and 4.8 inches respectively while the M53 float ON OFF height is 7.25 inches and 3 inches respectively which means the M53 can pump 4.25 gallons every pump cycle while the 1052 can only pump 3.45 gallons every pump cycle in an eighteen inch diameter basin. This makes a difference during continuous heavy pumping.
The switch cap for the 1052 pump is thermoplastic which does not dissipate heat and leads to faster switch failure. On the other hand the switch cap for the M53 is cast iron which dissipates the heat cause by the switch friction. Because of less cast iron, the 1052 weighs fifteen pounds while the M53 weighs twenty-one pounds. Extra weight keeps the pump more stationary in the basin during heavy continuous pumping.
The shut off height or maximum pumping height is different. For the 1052 model the shut off height is 15 feet while the shut off height for the Mighty Mate M53 is 19.25 feet.
The 1052 is 9.5 inches wide and the M53 is 10.25 inches which means the 1052 pump can fit in a ten inch diameter basin.
In conclusion when comparing the Zoeller Pro 1052 with the Zoeller Professional M63, the better buy is the Zoeller Professional Mighty Mate M53 Automatic Submersible Sump Pump.
The cost difference is around $10 to $40; but the benefit is worth more than that. The M53 is heavier, has easy to purchase replacement parts (we couldn't find any for the 1052), has an additional layer of cast iron housing for heat dissipation especially for the motor and switch cap, and pumps over one gallon more every pump cycle.
We own a M53 and are glad we installed in it 2005. It is very dependable. The only replacement part we have installed over the past 17 years is a float switch and switch cap gasket.
Both the Zoeller 1052 and the Zoeller M53 can be installed the same way.
Zoeller Pumps are easy to install. Check the Owner's Manual, follow the steps below and watch the video.
Step 1 - Unplug the old pump cord from the wall socket. Make sure it has its own socket so that the circuit does not experience overload and failure during heavy rain falls.
Step 2 - Loosen the bottom of the check valve from the discharge pipe. Catch the water from the discharge pipe in a bucket. Remove the top of the old check valve from the discharge pipe because it is best to replace the check valve when a new pump is installed.
Step 3- Remove the old sump pump from the basin.
Step 4 - Remove the discharge pipe from the old pump port. Reuse that pipe if it is in good condition. Screw the discharge pipe into the new pump port. Make sure the air hole is not clogged.
Step 5 - Place the new pump with the pipe in the basin to see if the pipe is short, too long or just right. Add more pipe as needed or cut it shorter as needed. It is best to add a connector with discharge pipe so it can be removed easier the next time. Adding new a discharge pipe will require plumber's primer and gluing the pipes together.
Step 6 - Install a new check valve to the upper part of the dangling discharge pipe system.
Step 7 - Once the piping is connected, and the check valve is connected at the bottom, plug in the pump.
Step 8 - Test for a successful install. Add water to the basin so the float rises high enough to activate the switch and run the sump pump.
No leaks? Congratulations! Your new sump pump install is successful. If there are leaks check what needs to be tightened more.
Here are some helpful related shopping resources.
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