Sump Pump Switch Reviews By Comparison For Best Switch

SUMP PUMP FLOAT SWITCH			SEARCH SUMP PUMP BY FLOAT SWITCH TYPE
NEW OPTION	REPLACEMENT BY BRAND	BASICS 101	TETHER	VERTICAL	VERTICAL MAGNETIC	VERTICAL ADJUSTABLE	DIAPHRAGM

Without a sump pump switch mechanism the sump pump would not work. Since this is usally the first mecahnism to fail, we are providing information to help you understand what they are and why they fail. Here are the main topics covered.

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* Switches are usually the first thing to fail for a sump pump.

* Not all pumps are built so their switch can be replaced. Cast Iron sump pumps have the most replacement switches available.

* Many sump pumps switches are universal. They can be used interchangeably with other manufacturer brand sump pumps. Make sure your sump pump does not exceed the amps supported by the external sump pump switch.

* Sump pumps with independent switches (not hardwired to the pump) have more available switch options.

* The BWE1 switch is a dual float switch. This provides redundant protection. If one float switch fails the other one begins to operate. Check it out below.

* The Hydrocheck HC6000 and LevelGuard Z24800A1Zare electronic switches. They are a fairly new switch type and very versatile. They independent of the sump pump and can be used to convert a non-automatic pump to automatic or can replace the switch on an automatic sump pump by bypassing the existing switch, plugging the pump into the piggyback switch of the Hydrocheckn and plugging the Hydrocheck into the wall outlet.

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* All switches are triggered by the change in water level.

* Tether and vertical floats raise as the water rises. When the water pushes the float high enough, the switch is triggered and the pump runs. When the water lowers the float lowers. When the water is low enough the switch is no longer on and the pump stops running.

* Diaphragm switches do not have floats. As the water rises, the diaphragm concaves because the water pressure increases and triggers the switch and the pump runs. As the water lowers the water pressure decreases, the diaphragm convexes, the switch is no longer triggered and the pump shuts off.

* The Electrontic HC6000 uses two probes instead of a float and a controller instead of a switch. When the water rises it touches the bottom probe and the controller senses the increase of water pressure on the lower probe. When the water reaches the top probe the controller senses the increase of water pressure on the top probe. At this point the preprogrammed controller triggers the pump to run because the water pressure is greater than the physical pressure of the pump. As the water lowers and no longer touches the probes the pump stops. The Electronic HC8000 has only one probe; therefore as the water rises and touches the bottom probe the controller senses the increase of water pressure which is greater than the physical pump pressure and triggers the pump to run.

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* The tether and vertical float can get tangled or caught in or on the side of the pit.

* Some float switches use graphite where the float rod and switch connect. When the graphite wears, the float can fail to release causing the float switch to stay ON causing the pump to continue running after the pit water is below the pump burning the motor out.

* Hollow floats can get punctured, fill with water, fail to rise as the water rises and therefore never trigger the switch to turn the pump motor on. Most manufacturers, for example Zoeller make solid polypropolyene floats which are not affected by punctures.

* Switches wear out over time. Switch failure means the pumps will not turn on when the water rises.

* Diaphragms get brittle and fail to concave and convex over time thus causing the switch to fail which causes the pump to turn on when the water rises.

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It is compatible with a submersible sump pump that:

* Has an attached tether or vertical float switch

* Has a diaphragm or microprocessor switch

* Runs on less than 14 amps required for running.

The HC6000 is reliable.

* Tested up to 350,000 cycles and still operating.

* Lifetime warranty. STAK Enterprises is very confident of their Hydrocheck HC6000.

* No moving parts to wear out or get stuck

It is versatile because it can be installed (with any existing submersible sump pump) as follows:

If your existing sump pump has a piggyback plug,unplug the sump pump motor cord from the piggy back plug, remove the piggy back plug from the wall socket, tape the piggyback cord out of the way, plug in the Hydrocheck HC6000 electronic switch controller into the wall socket, then plug in the sump pump motor cord into the Hydrocheck HC6000.

* If your existing sump pump does not have a piggyback plug but the float/switch is internally wired within the pump, push the float up as high as it will go so it is in "trigger the sump pump motor to run" position, secure the float at that height, plug in the Hydrocheck HC6000 into the wall socket and then plug the pump motor into the HC6000.

* If you have a manually operated sump pump, plug the Hydrocheck HC6000 into the wall socket; and then plug the sump pump motor cord into the HC6000 piggyback. You now have an automatic sump pump switch which will trigger the pump to run when the height of the water reaches the tip of the top probe.

We installed the HC6000 in 2011. We like it very much and have had no problems with it.